This piece was originally published in the November 2024 issue of Pandora Curated.
Provocative, visceral, disgusting, and unflinchingly uncomfortable—these are just some of the words that may be used to describe Coralie Fargeat’s second feature film The Substance, a stark and chilling exploration of popular culture’s obsession with youth, beauty, and innocence. A meditation, though not meditative piece on the vilification of age and desire, The Substance is just as much a psychological thriller as it is a body horror spectacle. With The Substance, Fargeat creates a striking, if controversial, commentary on our cultural obsession with beauty, youth, and the relentless pursuit of perfection.
Fargeat opens on Elisabeth, a once-celebrated actress and fitness guru, who is unceremoniously fired from her long-running TV show because of her age. Desperate to remain relevant in an industry that values youth above all else, especially in women, Elisabeth discovers "The Substance," a serum that creates a younger version of herself.
The direction of French feminist filmmaker Coralie Fargeat is strikingly unapologetic and bold in blending body horror with searing social commentary. A rare case of a film with a fully formulated visual aesthetic in itself, The Substance lets the eyes feast through neon-lit bathrooms, perfectly symmetrical interiors, and striking, disturbing practical effects, paying tribute to horror legends like David Cronenberg and Stuart Gordon.
Thematically, the film's critique of the beauty industry extends far beyond individuals to encompass the systemic issues perpetuated by media, corporations, and society. Critically, The Substance explores the intersection of ageism, sexism, and capitalism in the entertainment industry.
Fargeat intentionally parallels the multi-billion dollar beauty and anti-ageing industries that prey on insecurities. The Substance also delves into the cyclical nature of beauty standards and how they evolve to remain unattainable. As Elisabeth goes about using the substance, the goalposts of "perfection" shift like the sands, leaving even the seemingly flawless struggling.
The film most interestingly also invites reflection on the nature of identity and duality in an age of curated online personas and filtered realities. The protagonist’s ideation and creation of a younger self explore the fundamental disconnect between our intrinsic sense of self and the image we project to the world.
This complex interplay of identity and perception sets the stage for Demi Moore’s electrifying portrayal of Elisabeth, a woman embodying the stifled, self-loathing desperation of someone fiercely battling to reclaim her sense of relevance.
Opposite her is the much younger Margaret Qualley, who deftly delivers an eerie blend of confidence and narcissism, standing in stark contrast to Elisabeth's deep insecurity. Such a dynamic underscores the film's exploration of identity and power, though The Substance occasionally wavers in translating its provocation into true artistic excellence.
While undeniably daring and thought-provoking, it sometimes leans too heavily on shock value, struggling to fully realize the depth of its themes. The Substance struggles to balance its message with its more outrageous elements of graphic horror and though the film's critique of Hollywood's beauty standards is pertinent, it is hardly novel, and at times, heavy-handed.
Some reviewers have indicated its exacting focus on physical transformation as the subject of change and insecurity, and the film, perhaps inadvertently reinforces the very standards it seeks to critique, potentially setting itself into the trap of objectification it aims to condemn.
Additionally, there have been debates about whether the film's portrayal of women's struggles with aging, while well-intentioned, might inadvertently perpetuate harmful stereotypes about women's worth being tied to their appearance. Critics have also questioned the film's limited exploration of intersectionality, noting that it primarily focuses on the experiences of white, affluent women in the entertainment industry. Consequently, it would be intriguing to witness how these pressures intersect with race, class, and cultural backgrounds.
Certainly not perfect or for the faint of heart, The Substance combines body horror and social commentary in a way that may prove too intense for some viewers but, for others, may further highlight the film's merits. For me, the film stands out as a bold and thought-provoking exploration of the relentless pressures imposed by contemporary society's obsession with appearances. Its flaws rarely overshadow its striking ability to challenge and captivate, making it a singular and impactful cinematic experience.
Edited by the Curated Editorial Team
Anish Paranjape (he/him) is a student of Political Science and the Associate Editor of Entertainment at Political Pandora. His research interests encompass global politics and its influence on various landscapes, as well as an interest in film, television, and pop culture.
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Keywords: The Substance Movie Review, Coralie Fargeat Films, Body Horror Psychological Thriller, Hollywood Beauty Standards Critique, Ageism In Entertainment Industry, French Feminist Filmmaker, Anti-Ageing Serum Movie, Identity And Duality Themes, Capitalism And Beauty Industry, Neon-Lit Aesthetic Horror, Demi Moore The Substance, Margaret Qualley Performance, Social Commentary Body Horror, Intersectionality In Hollywood Films, Cultural Obsession With Youth.
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